Article Written By EIH Researcher And Writer
Rayana Rose Sabu
Dressed in bright-coloured choli or salwars with a heavily embroidered dupatta slung over their head, the bride is a sight to behold. Her jewellery captivates the onlookers. The sparkle of the bright red choodas, the tinkle of her kaleere as they brush against each other, the payal announcing her arrival and the fragrant mehendi on her hands symbolising the auspiciousness of the occasion. The Punjabi bride is adorned with jewellery and love.
Jewellery holds a special place in the hearts of Indian women, and it has social and economic implications. It serves as both an investment and an emergency fund. The jewellery given to the bride at the wedding is now hers to keep. Because they are separated from other materials by this classification, precious metals and stones have represented riches and power throughout history. The idea of riches and power as inculcated through jewellery appears to have persisted in the minds of Punjabi women. Ornaments that symbolise power, wealth and femininity are found in wide varieties and forms. Since jewellery frequently reflects the social position of the family, the amount of jewellery worn on wedding days doubles, and the bride accessorises with a variety of pieces that have been passed down or amassed by the parents, particularly the mother.
Wearing a lot of jewellery is considered auspicious, so the lavish bridal attire frequently includes a Rani Haar, a long necklace draped over the neck, followed by smaller necklaces.
A tika that hangs from her head and rests in the middle of her forehead is used as a headpiece. It is positioned at the agya chakra, also referred to as the third eye, or in the middle of the forehead. This symbolises the bride and groom’s emotional, physical, and spiritual oneness. The bride’s look is not complete without her deep red chooda. It plays a significant role in the solah shringar of a Punjabi bride. This is one of the most obvious signs of a new bride. The chooda, worn for at least 40 to 45 days following the wedding, is easily associated with fertility and prosperity. The bridal lehenga, frequently given by the maternal uncle, is worn with the chooda.
The bride’s jewellery isn’t complete without a nath, also known as a nose ring or the haath pool, which comprises a ring coupled to a chain or links frequently connected to an elaborate bracelet. Another important item of jewellery is the elaborate bracelet known as the bajuband is worn on the bride’s arms. Nowadays, wearing a bajuband as a bride is less typical. They were traditionally worn on both arms to symbolise strength. Perhaps, the most recognisable item of the bride’s jewellery is the promising Kaleere, which has gradually gained popularity and into the mainstream. These hangings in the shape of an umbrella make a unique pairing with the chooda, which denotes the couple’s everlasting love and happiness as newlyweds. Sisters and friends of the bride attach the kaleere to her chooda. They are coloured golden or silver. The purpose is to send the bride warm wishes and remind her of the relatives and friends she will leave behind when she gets married. The kaleere’s coconut form alludes to the fact that she would never go hungry in her new home, and the metal represents wealth and success. The kaleere is frequently covered in coconut, dry fruits, and dried beetle nuts.
Apart from the jewellery, another essential aspect is the trousseau or Daaj. This is a gift from the maternal family to help the bride lead a comfortable life. As soon as the girl is born, this furniture planning begins. Among the furniture items given as a part of the bridal trousseau, the most popular gifts are the sandook (chest), manja (charpoy), charkha, pakkhi (fan), and innu (pot ring). Occasionally, additional gifts included khes (blanket), gadda (mattress), peti (chest), and kursi (chair).
In former times, the Sandook was regarded as the most crucial component of the Daaj. The bride would transport her bedding, clothes, and other daaj accessories inside the sandook. The concealed compartments held precious valuables like money and jewellery. It was made of wood, and the local mistri would give the bride’s father some examples of sandook designs to start the making and designing. The sandook would frequently take years to construct. The family’s social standing was directly correlated with size and adornment. A decorated Sandook would indicate that the family is wealthy.
Other significant components of the Daaj include the Manja (cot), and Palang (ornate headboard). Gaana (holy thread), which is traditionally tied to the bride and groom during wedding rites for good luck, is then attached to the Palang because it is seen to be fortunate. Another thing that the bride takes is a charkha, which is used to weave fabric for pakkhi or furniture surfaces. Straw, date leaves, grass, and cloth are stitched together to form the Pakkhi or hand fans, which are then affixed to a handle. The pakkhi that a bride-to-be crafts with colourful threads—typically in odd numbers of 5, 7, or 11—becomes a component of the bridal belongings she transports to her husband’s home. Finally, there is the innu, a beautiful pot carrier worn on the head. The girl creates this before her wedding, and it is frequently embellished with ghungroo, beads, and vibrant threads.
The Punjabi bridal jewellery and trousseau continue to occupy an important place even with the current generation. Although it may have been modernised and the contents slightly changed to suit the preferences of the modern bride, it still remains rooted in the traditions of the land.
Bibliography
Punjab: Traditional Ornaments Of Punjab – Gateway To Sikhism. (1969, December 31). www.allaboutsikhs.com.https://www.allaboutsikhs.com/punjab/punjab-traditional-ornaments-of-punjab/
The Bridal Trousseau: “Daaj” Furniture. (n.d.). Google Arts & Culture. Retrieved April 2, 2023, from https://artsandculture.google.com/story/the-bridal-trousseau-daaj-furniture-dicrc-cept-university/cQWh2Xik0ZEXKw?hl=en
Bride, T. W. P. (2017, January 7). The Attire Of A Punjabi Bride. The White Punjabi Bride. https://www.thewhitepunjabibride.com/post/2017/01/08/the-attire-of-a-punjabi-bride
