Watches, one of the most common accessories in modern life, have a long history that coincides with the advancement of technology, fashion, and social dynamics. Wristwatches in India have progressed from luxury products to everyday necessities, yet they did not begin there. The history of timepieces in India includes the transition from pocket watches to wristwatches and the creation of notable companies such as HMT. Along the way, wrist watches grew to represent progress, modernity, and self-empowerment, particularly at watershed points in Indian history.
(HMT Janata , the most recognisable model and one of the most popular one)
The Inception of Watches: From the Pocket to the Wrist
During the 18th and 19th centuries, pocket watches were considered status symbols in colonial India, signifying precision, prestige, and authority. These timepieces, which were mostly imported from Europe, belonged to the wealthy Indian and British aristocracy. Having a pocket watch at the time was seen as a sign of wealth and access to modern technological marvels. Accurate timekeeping became increasingly important as industry expanded over the world, particularly in light of the growing number of railroads and organized work schedules.
Nevertheless, there were disadvantages to the pocket watch, especially for India’s expanding working population. It was heavy, easily broken, and frequently needed two hands to retrieve and check the time. A change was occurring as colonial India’s way of life grew increasingly urbanized and fast-paced. The pivotal moment was when wristwatches, which were first made for troops, became popular during World War I. Smaller, more durable, and easier to access proved to be a useful tool on the battlefield when time was of the essence.
Returning officers and soldiers from the war introduced the wristwatch to civilian life, where it soon gained popularity as an accessory. Early in the 20th century, as the nation got closer to independence, wristwatches became popular as a sign of modernity, eventually displacing more conventional pocket timepieces. This change in watch preferences occurred at the same time as India began its path toward modernity and independence, setting the stage for what would eventually come to be known as the HMT wristwatch era.
(HMT sujata and citizen, one of the most widely sold variant)
HMT Watches: The Dawn of India’s Homegrown Timekeepers
Hindustan Machine Tools ( HMT for short) is an iconic Indian brand, a Swadeshi brand of mechanical watches. By Indians, for Indians, and of Indians. This watch brand is most known for its association with the story of Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, who once inquired about the possibility of manufacturing a Swiss-style watch in India after receiving one as a gift. The idea was reportedly rejected with a brusque laugh, although there is a story that India then contacted Seiko in Japan to obtain the technology. This too proved to be unsuccessful. By a lucky stroke of timing, Seiko’s rival Citizen decided to partner with India. They gave Indian professionals access to their technology, together with pertinent training and craftsmanship, and the result was the establishment of the HMT watch production operation in Bangalore in 1961.
(Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru inaugurating HMT’s first manufacturing facility in 1962)
(Indira Gandhi with HMT Janata on her wrist)
Not only did HMT manufacture exceptional watches, but it also skillfully combined nostalgia with functionality. “Timekeepers to the Nation,” HMT’s tagline, captured the company’s goal of being approachable to all Indians, from farmers to officials. The timepieces, which were painstakingly made and frequently put together by hand, represented a new era of accuracy and dependability in India. In 1963, Jawahar Lal Nehru revealed the first watch, named “Janata.” HMT Janata, the most well-liked HMT model to date, was a people’s watch.
With a roughly 36-hour power reserve, the mechanically wound timepieces were wound by hand. Thin dial, measuring about 30 to 35 mm in diameter and 6 mm in thickness. The watch never stopped because it had no battery or cell. People used to hand wind it every day and take twenty seconds before heading to work. Similar to lighting the diva in the home temple, it was a ceremony. There were unisex HMT watches. A watch could be purchased for about $400, and even the priciest, gold-plated models were affordable for many. There used to be a long queue of dealers when a new model was announced. A waiting list and letters of recommendation from IAS officers and politicians were required in order to obtain the highly sought-after HMT Kanchan, the most well-known “Dowry watch.”
HMT’s Advertising and Popularity: A National Icon
The HMT watches’ marketing strategy was one of its most interesting characteristics. It seems that back in the 1960s, HMT used to load up a minivan and drive around the town with its posters, hoardings, and, of course, watches. Rajesh Khanna and other celebrities’ films would be screened on a makeshift screen with a projector attached. During brief intermissions, these watches would be promoted and sold to the literally “captive” audience.
HMT became known for being the epitome of achievement and aspiration in almost every Indian household. It became the ideal gift, the most reliable friend, the prize awarded by parents when their children passed their matriculation exams (usually an HMT Janata), the watch one gave themselves (usually an HMT Pilot) when they received their first salary, and even a remarkable family heirloom. HMT also became very diverse as a result of the fact that there was now a watch for almost everyone: a watch for a doctor or nurse to wear on their lapel, a watch in Braille (possibly the first watch made in the country for the blind), a set of his and hers for a newlywed couple, and even a stylish low-cost watch for the stylish young individual.
The HMT watch that was provided to Indian Air Force and Air India pilots was called HMT Pilot. The black dial and hand-painted lumesces give the watch a unique, athletic vibe. Politician Madhav Rao Scindia, a native of Gwalior, is said to have customized the HMT pilot to match the color of his clothes. He possessed hundreds of Pilot watches. Indian collectors are ardently attempting to acquire the entire “Scindia pilot collection.”
It was an expression of pride and time management to buy an HMT wrist watches as advertised by the company itself. The watches had an air of refinement despite being priced for the average Indian, with styles ranging from traditional, straightforward clocks to more elaborate, exquisite designs.
(Few notable advertisements of HMT watches)
The portrayal of Women & HMT Watches in Filmy Duniya
During the 1970s and 1980s, when HMT watches were at their highest point, Indian cinema began to quietly reflect the expanding significance of wristwatches in society, particularly among working women. Wearing a wristwatch in these films was more than just pragmatic; it was a striking statement of modernity, independence, and aspiration for female characters.
One of the most prominent examples is from the 1975 film “Chhoti Si Baat,” in which Vidya Sinha’s character, a professional working lady, is shown frequently checking her wristwatch to emphasize her timeliness and function in the workplace. The watch becomes an accessory that distinguishes her from the typical, homebound women of previous films. It wasn’t just about knowing the time; it was about having control over it.
(Vidya Sinha in “Choti si baat” wearing an HMT watch)
Similarly, in “Guddi” (1971), Jaya Bhaduri’s character grows from a naive schoolgirl to a more mature woman as the story progresses. In sequences where she begins to consider her future, notably in the workplace, the wristwatch becomes a sign of her maturation and ability to step outside traditional norms.
HMT watches, with their sleek looks and durability, were frequently seen on the wrists of these “new women” in urban settings, discreetly connecting the concepts of professional success and modernity. Shabana Azmi was also featured in the 1980s film “Arth” as a working, independent lady dealing with personal and professional issues. Her wristwatch, a regular presence in her scenes, becomes a modest symbol of her ordered, hectic life, emphasizing the notion that modern women, like men, had to keep track of time in order to manage their increasingly demanding lives. These films, through subtle imagery of HMT watches on female protagonists, reinforced the notion that watches were more than just timepieces—they were emblems of progress and modernity, particularly for working women in India.
The Legacy of HMT: More Than Just a Watch
In spite of its initial success and strong emotional connection with Indian customers, HMT watches started to lose market share in the late 1980s and early 1990s. The younger generation was drawn to the new designs, technology, and fashions that were launched by global brands such as Titan, Timex, and Seiko. These timepieces were more sophisticated, more feature-rich, and slimmer than HMT’s, which had more traditional and conservative looks. By the early 2000s, HMT watches were considered old-fashioned, a remnant of the past rather than a symbol of modernity.
Although HMT watches are no longer produced, their heritage lives on. Many Indians still treasure their HMT watches, which are frequently passed down from generation to generation. It recalls a time when India was striving for self-sufficiency, and HMT was the face of that drive.
HMT watches still have a strong legacy in Indian horology. It is well-known for its dependable and reasonably priced watches, which have appealed to a diverse client base. Despite obstacles and production disruptions, its name is still a vital part of Indian horology. Its history and products continue to interest us and serve as reminders of the company’s enormous contribution to the Indian industrial scene.
REFERENCES
Behl, Amish. “A Tribute To The HMT Janata: India’s Horological Icon.” Winding Ritual, 1 June 2020, www.windingritual.com/hmt-janata-watch-india-history-tribute.
Tooplate. Official Web Site of HMT Watches by HMT Limited | Buy online. www.hmtwatches.in/about_us.
Watchhistorian. “The Story of H.M.T,The father of Indian horology – Watchhistorian – Medium.” Medium, 23 June 2023, medium.com/@jassimjmr1017/the-story-of-h-m-t-the-father-of-indian-horology-897ac75784e9.
The Hour Markers – India’s Leading Independent Media House Dedicated to Wrist Watches. 17 Mar. 2024, thehourmarkers.com/articles/hmt-watches-a-walk-down-the-memory-lane.
http://hmtwatches.blogspot.com/ https://www.theweek.in/webworld/features/luxury/hmt-watches.html
