How Christmas is Celebrated in Old Delhi: Eid-e-tawallud

The month of December is a blend of nostalgic yet hopeful feelings. One recounts the events of the year, how it slipped through the fist like sand. Meanwhile, a new hope for the upcoming year excites tangled in the last month’s holiday season. December, with its quiet elegance and festive mirth, unfolds as a recollection of memories, woven with the threads of tradition and the sparkle of shared joy. And one such joy that this month brings is Christmas. The fireside tales echo with laughter, and the scent of cinnamon and gingerbread wafts through cozy abodes. Mugs cradle steaming hot chocolate, and windows frame scenes of bustling streets adorned with twinkling lights, casting a magical spell that enchants the urban landscape of Delhi. Get ready to be enchanted by the tantalizing aroma of freshly baked treats and the delightful sweetness that permeates through homes and churches decked out in festive red Christmas decorations!

In diverse Indian states, Christmas celebrations reflect a fusion of traditions and cultures. Goa resonates with vibrant processions and midnight masses, where Portuguese influences blend seamlessly with local customs. In Kerala, homes sparkle with lights, and churches resonate with carols in the tranquil backwaters. In the northeastern state of Nagaland, the festive spirit is marked by community feasts and traditional dances. Meanwhile, in the bustling cities of Maharashtra and Delhi, Christmas markets and street decorations add a cosmopolitan flair to the festivities. Across India, the warmth of Christmas extends beyond religious boundaries, uniting communities in a web of joy, feasting, and goodwill.

The atmosphere of this celebration is reflected in the Delhi marketplaces, which are brimming with Christmas souvenirs, Santa hats, decorations, baked goods, and other items. There is a competition among hotels, restaurants, and businesses to see which one can have the most eye-catching holiday décor and the most alluring presents for the holiday season. In Delhi, markets like Sadar Bazar, INA Market, Lajpat Nagar, Khan Market, etc are filled with a wide variety of Christmas trees and decorations, ranging from nominal prices for good quality products mostly imported from China to hefty amounts for exquisite decor pieces.  

Cafes and restaurants in Delhi transform into festive havens.  As the holiday season rolls in, these culinary hotspots undergo a magical transformation, turning into whimsical wonderlands of Christmas cheer. From twinkling lights to glittering ornaments, every nook and cranny is adorned with enchanting decorations that transport you straight into a winter wonderland. Twinkling fairy lights and ornate wreaths, resplendent with vibrant ribbons and aromatic pine, adorn walls, infusing the air with the nostalgic fragrance of the season. Tables and counters are decked with glistening baubles and whimsical ornaments, creating a merry tapestry that invites patrons to revel in the spirit of Christmas. The ambiance becomes a delightful fusion of culinary delights and festive cheer, as visitors indulge in the joyous surroundings, making every visit a celebration of both taste and the holiday season’s enchantment. 

The festive spirit of Christmas sweeps through Indian television serials and cartoons, enhancing the celebratory atmosphere. On the small screen, Indian reality shows and serials joyously embrace the season, portraying spirited fun and engaging games that resonate with the audience. Notably, Christmas Eve brings a special treat for young viewers on the Pogo Channel, where beloved characters like Mighty Raju and Chota Bheem take center stage in delightful shows tailored for kids. This convergence of entertainment and celebration on television adds an extra layer of joy. This time around in Delhi, one might also find people dressing up as Santa Claus, in the streets of Chandni Chowk to attract customers to buy. Educational institutions nationwide orchestrate festive programs engaging both faculty and students. In Delhi, students from schools embrace the festive spirit by donning costumes, portraying characters like Santa Claus and Mother Mary. The significance of Christmas is beautifully expressed through the melodious rendition of carols, fostering a sense of goodwill and celebration. Convent schools elevate the festivities by organizing Christmas fairs and fests, where cultural presentations such as songs, skits, and dance performances take center stage. The lively occasion sees students dressed as Santa Claus and fairies, joyously distributing sweets, creating a heartwarming atmosphere.

The style of celebrating Christmas in India is different from the celebrations around the world. In an interview with Rajeev Darvin, a resident of Delhi, people generally hesitate to adopt the Western style of celebration. According to him,  from dresses to eating and drinking habits, one might be judged nowadays. Hence in India, traditional practices found a way to intervene with the Indian culture, so Indian Christians celebrate it by offering regular church service followed by family dinners and cake distribution. In old Delhi churches like Holy Trinity Church near Turkman and Central Baptist Church in Chandni Chowk are adorned with fairy lights before Christmas. Enchanting carols influenced heavily by Punjabi and Urdu fill the church walls. Some of them are Purab disha se Tara, Oho masih aaya zameen par, and Aya hai yeshu aaya hai ‘Eid-e-Tawallud’, one of the hymns translates to ‘celebration of the birth of the boy’. Shahjahanabad, a city steeped in Mughal history, is known for its traditional Christmas celebrations and services held in Hindustani way. A tiny but vibrant Christian community may be found amid Old Delhi’s cosmopolitan mix. The Christian link with Shahjahanabad dates back centuries, when Armenians and Portuguese were the first to settle in this classic Mughal city. Many of these Christians are descendants of migrants who migrated to Delhi from other regions of India decades ago. Armenian merchants may have been numerous enough to support the presence of a church and a priest in the city in the early 18th century, according to historian and novelist Swapna Liddle. 

In the era of Akbar, a historical tapestry unfolded as Christmas emerged as a grand and vibrant celebration, even amidst the influx of foreigners. According to the Franciscan Annals, the joy of the congregation resonated throughout the city, creating a palpable atmosphere of festivity. The bustling bazaars adorned themselves in a festive array, featuring colorful arches, banners, and flags from various countries that fluttered in the crisp December air. The records vividly describe a sensory symphony – bugles blaring, clarionets playing, trumpets sounding, and the crackling of fireworks, all harmonizing with the melodious peals of church bells. This historical account paints a vivid picture of a bygone December, where the cityscape itself came alive in celebration, showcasing the multicultural spirit of the time. Christian communities within the walled city of Old Delhi have cultivated a unique cultural fusion, blending Mughal traditions with influences from neighboring communities. The Christmas culinary delights of Old Delhi encompass a rich array of traditional items, including gujiyas, namak paras, shakkar paras, and bajre ki tikiyas. The day starts with breakfast kachoris, leading up to a lavish Mughlai feast for lunch featuring biriyani, aloo gosht, nihari, korma, paye, zarda, and kebabs, with the addition of the Christmas centerpiece – turkey. While the majority of the menu reflects Mughlai flavors, Christmas cakes, a Western touch, are a cherished part of the festive spread. Over time, Christian families in Old Delhi, once residing in Patudi House and Turkman Gate, have dispersed throughout the city, carrying the spirit and traditions of the walled city with them.

As Christmas cakes blend with Mughlai feasts and carols echo through historic churches, the essence of the season transcends borders and traditions, embracing the unique amalgamation of cultures that defines the Indian celebration of Christmas. From the bustling markets adorned with festive treasures to the transformation of cafes into whimsical wonderlands, the celebration of Christmas in Delhi is a reflection of the city’s unique spirit. As carols resonate through historic churches, the aroma of Mughlai feasts fills the air, and the joyful spirit spreads through schools, homes, and communities, Delhi becomes a living canvas of festive enchantment. Old Delhi, where history and contemporary life intertwine, the Christian community carries forward the legacy of cultural fusion, embodying the spirit of Christmas that has endured through centuries. The spirit of Christmas brings new hope to the end of the year as the act of gift-giving, a central element of Christmas, embodies the spirit of generosity and goodwill, fostering connections and spreading joy. Families and friends come together to celebrate, sharing laughter, meals, and cherished moments. In a world that may have witnessed its fair share of trials, the sense of unity and companionship during Christmas becomes a powerful source of hope.

References

• Roychowdhury, Adrija. “Kachoris and Kebabs on ‘Eid-e-Tawallud’: The Very Mughal Colours of Old Delhi’s Christmas.” The Indian Express, 26 Dec. 2022, indianexpress.com/article/research/kachoris-and-kebabs-on-eid-e-tawallud-the-very-mughal-colours-of-old-delhis-christmas-8340107.
• Chaturvedi, Pooja. “Christmas in Old Delhi | Mint Primer.” https://www.livemint.com, 24 Dec. 2013, www.livemint.com/Multimedia/FtqajPmxeew0dq27kLqKYM/Christmas-in-Old-Delhi.html.