CHAAT
Chaat, a beloved street food of Delhi, embodies a rich tapestry of flavors and traditions that have evolved over centuries. Originating from the Hindi word ‘cāṭ,’ meaning ‘to taste,’ and the Prakrit ‘caṭṭei,’ which translates to ‘devour with relish,’ chaat is more than just a snack—it’s a cultural phenomenon. From its legendary roots in the Mughal era to its status as a quintessential part of Delhi’s bustling food scene, chaat reflects the city’s vibrant history and culinary innovation. Exploring its mythical origins, historical significance, and evolution reveals how this diverse and irresistible dish captures the essence of Delhi’s dynamic culinary spirit.
There are theories about the historical origins of chaat. Some suggest it originated from its literal meaning “to lick,” implying that the dish was so delicious that people licked their fingers and the bowls. Others believe it comes from the term “chatpati,” meaning “tangy.” However, the true origin remains uncertain. The chaat variants are all based on fried dough, with various other ingredients. The “original” chaat comprises a mixture of potato pieces, crisp fried bread, the vada, chickpeas, and the tangy-salty spices, with sour Indian chili and saunth, a dried ginger and tamarind sauce, topped with fresh green coriander leaves and yogurt for garnish. Today, popular variants include aloo tikkis or samosas garnished with the chaat trimmings, bhel puri, panipuri, papri chaat, and sev puri, among many more. There are common elements among most of these variants, mainly the ingredients they are dressed with, such as the yogurt, chopped onions, herbs, and spices. All the elements are combined to great effect and typically served on a small metal plate or a banana leaf, dried and formed into a bowl.
(Source: https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/chaat-kt-achaya/article26203395.ece https://somethingcurated.com/2021/09/23/a-guide-to-chaat-indias-favourite-snack/ Fig 1: Raj Kachori; Fig 2: Dahi Vada)
Legend has it that the concept of chaat was introduced during the Mughal era. While Shah Jahan, the fifth Mughal emperor, is renowned for his creation of the Taj Mahal, he is also credited with the invention of chaat. During his reign in the 16th century, a cholera outbreak revealed that the Yamuna River’s water was contaminated and unsuitable for direct consumption, leading to several water-borne diseases. It was the royal physician Hakim Ali who proposed mixing the water with spices like tamarind, coriander, mint, and red chilies to kill the bacteria. To combat the effects of contaminated water, very spicy and oily food was introduced, marking the advent of chaat. No wonder Old Delhi’s chaat, also known as Shahjahanabad, is a must-try for many visitors.
Beyond the myths, the historical origins of chaat are deeply rooted in the cultural and social fabric of Delhi. The city’s strategic location made it a melting pot of cultures, where traders, soldiers, and settlers from various regions brought their unique culinary traditions. Chaat, in its earliest forms, was likely a simple combination of available local ingredients, designed to be quick and portable for the bustling market life. The amalgamation of different spices and flavors from these diverse communities contributed to the rich tapestry that is Delhi’s chaat today.
The markets of Old Delhi, especially Chandni Chowk, have long been centers for trading and socializing, and chaat played a significant role in these activities. These markets were bustling hubs where traders and locals needed quick, tasty snacks, leading to the rise of numerous chaat stalls. Over time, these spots became legendary for their unique recipes, passed down through generations. Stories of specific stalls like Natraj Dahi Bhalla, Ashok Chaat Bhandar, and Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala, which have been serving chaat for decades, highlight the tradition and loyalty that characterize Delhi’s chaat culture.
Chaats is more than just a food item; it is an integral part of Delhi’s cultural identity. The communal aspect of eating chaat fosters social interactions and a sense of community. Street vendors, often family-run businesses, become local landmarks where people gather not just to eat but to share stories and experiences. The vibrant atmosphere of a chaat stall, with the cacophony of haggling and the aroma of spices, is a microcosm of Delhi’s eclectic culture.
(Source: https://thetimelock.photos/ashok-chat-corner-chawri-bazar-new-delhi/)
Chaats Evolution Through Time
Chaat recipes have evolved significantly over the centuries, adapting to changing tastes and the availability of new ingredients. Originally simple snacks made with local produce, chaat varieties expanded with the introduction of new spices, herbs, and cooking techniques. The creativity of vendors led to innovations like golgappa, aloo tikki, and papri chaat, each with its own unique blend of ingredients and textures. The use of tamarind chutney and mint-coriander chutney added new layers of flavor, transforming simple ingredients into complex and delicious street food.
The Mughal era had a profound influence on the cuisine of Delhi, including its street food. The Mughals brought with them a rich culinary tradition that emphasized intricate cooking techniques and a sophisticated use of spices. Chaats, influenced by these Mughal culinary principles, saw the inclusion of ingredients like yogurt, ghee, and exotic spices. The method of layering flavors and textures in dishes like dahi bhalla and aloo tikki chaat can be directly traced to Mughal cooking techniques.
The secrets of chaat making lie in the balance and blend of flavors—sweet, sour, tangy, and spicy. Each vendor has their own secret recipe, often a closely guarded family secret, which sets their chaat apart. The freshness of ingredients, the precision in mixing spices, and the timing of adding different elements are all crucial. For example, the perfect golgappa requires the right balance of crispy puris, spicy water, and sweet tamarind chutney, all served at the exact right moment to ensure a burst of flavors with each bite.
Chaat’s cultural evolution is intertwined with the cultural history of Delhi. From the Mughal courts to the British colonial period, each era left its mark on the city’s food culture. During the British Raj, the influx of people from different parts of India introduced new regional variations to Delhi’s chaat. The partition of India in 1947 brought a significant migration of people from Pakistan, who contributed their culinary traditions to Delhi’s street food, further enriching its diversity.
Natraj Dahi Bhalla Corner, a legendary spot in Old Delhi, is a prime example of the city’s rich chaats heritage. Established in 1940 by Late Shri Kundan Lal Ji, this small shop near Chandni Chowk has become synonymous with delectable dahi bhallas and aloo tikkis. The recipe has been passed down through generations, each adding their own twist to perfect it. The current owners, following the legacy, ensure that every ingredient used is of the highest quality. Their dahi bhalla is renowned for its soft lentil dumplings soaked in creamy yogurt, topped with sweet and tangy chutneys and a sprinkle of spices. The balance of flavors and the freshness of the ingredients make it a favorite among locals and tourists alike.
(Source: https://delhitourism.gov.in/dttdc/food_tour/natraj_dahi_bhalla.jsp: crowd at Natraj Dahi Bhalla Corner)
Another iconic chaats corner in Delhi is the Paranthe Wali Gali in Chandni Chowk. Though famous for its stuffed parathas, the narrow lane is also home to some of the best chaat vendors in the city. The area has been serving delicious food since the 1870s, and each shop has its own story. For instance, the famous Kanhaiyalal Durga Prasad Dixit Paranthe Wale, established in 1875, is known for its unique fillings and delectable chaats. The vendors here have mastered the art of combining different flavors and textures, offering a variety of chaats that cater to all taste buds.
The history of Bengali Market is another fascinating tale of culinary evolution. Established in the 1930s by Bengali sweet sellers, the market quickly became a hub for a variety of street foods, including chaat. The renowned Nathu’s Sweets, started in 1939, offers an array of traditional chaats that have delighted generations of Delhiites. Their papri chaat, a mix of crispy papris, boiled potatoes, chickpeas, and yogurt, topped with chutneys and spices, is a must-try. The secret to their success lies in their unwavering commitment to quality and the perfect blend of flavors in their dishes.
Traditional chaat recipes have been preserved and perfected over generations. These recipes often involve intricate preparations and the use of fresh, local ingredients. For instance, making aloo tikki involves boiling and mashing potatoes, seasoning them with spices, shaping them into patties, and frying them to a golden crisp. The addition of various chutneys, yogurt, and sev (crispy noodles) transforms these simple patties into a flavorful chaats. Each ingredient is carefully selected and prepared to ensure the perfect harmony of flavors.
Chaats and Mughal cuisine share a symbiotic relationship, with each influencing the other. Mughal cuisine’s emphasis on rich, aromatic dishes with a balance of flavors is reflected in many chaat recipes. Ingredients like saffron, rose water, and dried fruits, commonly used in Mughal dishes, occasionally find their way into chaat, adding a royal touch. The concept of combining contrasting flavors and textures, a hallmark of Mughal cooking, is evident in the layered complexity of chaat.
Chaat has evolved significantly over time, reflecting the changing tastes and culinary trends of Delhi. Each decade has brought its own innovations, contributing to the diverse array of chaat options available today. The introduction of new ingredients and techniques has led to the creation of exciting new chaat varieties that continue to captivate food lovers.
Modern chaats has adapted to contemporary tastes, incorporating elements from various global cuisines. For instance, fusion dishes like taco and pasta chaat blend traditional flavors with international influences, creating a unique twist on the classic. This constant evolution ensures that it remains relevant and exciting, appealing to a broad audience.
The evolution of this also reflects broader social and cultural changes in Delhi. As the city has grown and diversified, so has its food culture. The influx of different communities and the globalization of food trends have contributed to the ever-expanding repertoire of chaat varieties. From traditional stalls to modern eateries, the chaats landscape is a testament to Delhi’s vibrant and dynamic food scene.
Chaat’s enduring popularity can be attributed to its ability to adapt and evolve while maintaining its core essence. Whether enjoyed as a quick snack or a gourmet treat, chaat continues to delight and surprise with its innovative combinations and traditional roots. This blend of old and new is what makes chaat a timeless and beloved part of Delhi’s culinary heritage.
REFERENCES
https://zeezest.com/food/let-s-chaat-the-sweet-spicy-and-tangy-story-of-chaat-2401
https://www.indiatoday.in/mail-today/story/let-us-chaat-about-it-1634040-2020-01-04
https://www.sanjeevkapoor.com/Recipe/Chaat-.html
https://www.hindustantimes.com/india/revisiting-chandni-chowk/story-Uze6Jj5hO5C7OznOC0P4SM.html
https://thebetterindia.com/352975/best-street-food-shops-delhi-ashok-chaat-corner-old-famous-jalebi-wala-jama-masjid-kebabs-chole-bhature/
