Festivals

Santa In A Rickshaw: Christmas In A Bow Barracks Of Kolkata

enrouteI
December 20, 2023

Isn’t this how the majority of us picture Father Christmas arriving? But things look very different when you go to Kolkata’s Bow Barracks. In a whimsical twist on tradition, Santa Claus arrives in the typical, Kolkata hand-pulled rickshaw. In this scene, Santa Claus performs a merry jig whilst his seated companion struggles to prevent Santa from falling off by clinging to his waist. His infectious giggles carries the cheer of the season as he greets the eagerly awaiting crowd. Children and adults alike gather around, their faces lighting up with wonder. With a bag full of confections, Santa spreads joy and cheer to all, his presence embodying the universal spirit of generosity and kindness.

Red-Bricked Buildings of Bow-Barrack/ Sumit Surai via Wikimedia Commons

Nestled in the center of Kolkata, Bow Barracks—named Bow after Bow Bazaar and Barracks for residential quarters— is a tapestry of sights, sounds, and fragrances that capture the essence of Kolkata’s cultural mosaic. Bow Barracks was initially constructed during World War I as a set of barracks or apartments for British troops. The seven blocks that were constructed have apartments with one, two, and three bedrooms, and the troops were supposed to be assigned apartments based on their ranks. But instead of making their home there, they choose to remain at Fort William. At that point, the Anglo-Indian community—who by then had grown to form a sizable portion of the British labor force in India—was offered these quarters.

Bow Barracks was designed by Halsey Ricardo, who also designed Kolkata’s famed Howrah Bridge. The architecture of Bow Barracks exudes a colonial-era charm, with its red-brick buildings standing proudly amidst the bustling streets. The narrow lanes are lined with rows of quaint two-story houses, adorned with squared balconies and green windows and doors that tell stories of a bygone era. The design is modeled after, or has resemblance to, old, historic Spanish colonial town plans, which use a city grid layout. Bow Barracks is currently home to Chinese, Bengali, and Gujarati families in addition to Anglo-Indian families. It is a cosmopolitan area that is also a cultural melting pot.

Bow-Barracks during Christmas/ Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

During the Christmas season, Bow Barracks is transformed into a winter wonderland of lights and festivities. With vivid decorations, sparkling fairy lights, and bright ribbons covering every nook and crevice, the entire neighborhood comes to life. The air resonates with the joyful melodies of carols and the laughter of children. The aroma of freshly made cakes and traditional delicacies wafts through the air, creating an irresistible ambiance of festivity.

The festivities usually start the week before Christmas. As the days draw closer to Christmas, the grotto, a sacred place of prayer for the local residents, is spurred and decorated. In a cozy corner, a meticulously crafted crib holds the essence of the nativity scene, reminding all of the humble beginnings of this cherished holiday. A majestic Christmas tree takes center stage, resplendent with its lush green branches and glistening baubles. It stands tall, radiating an aura of enchantment in the quadrangle, adorned with vibrant streamers and festive decorations. Each balcony is adorned with a dazzling star.

In the true spirit of the season, the residents of Bow Barracks come together to spread love and compassion far and wide. Various programs are organized, encompassing the young and the old, the privileged and the less fortunate. The impoverished and needy children of the area are embraced with open arms, regardless of their religious faith, and food packets are distributed. The grandeur of the annual Christmas Ball casts its spell, transforming the SFX church hall into a breathtaking dance floor adorned with shimmering lights and elegant décor. The air is filled with the melodies of Bob Dylan, John Lennon, and Elves Presley, creating a bewitching ambiance where the old and new harmoniously intertwine. Senior Citizen’s Day takes center stage, offering a delightful array of activities tailored to honor the wisdom and grace of the elder generation. Laughter fills the air as rounds of bingo bring forth moments of friendly competition, while musical chairs and dancing evoke memories of youthful exuberance.

Krakenimages via Unsplash

The floodlight soccer tournament ignites the passion of sports enthusiasts. But it is the children who truly find themselves immersed in a world of enchantment. Games and pony rides are meticulously arranged, transforming the neighborhood into a playground of laughter and imagination. A vibrant array of stalls become veritable havens of temptation, adorned with rich fruitcakes, their golden crusts hinting at the sumptuousness within. Beside them, velvety chocolate cakes and gingerbread permeates the air, evoking memories of childhood and the warmth of home. The wines are shimmer with the promise of joyful toasts. Deep reds, with their hints of berry and spice, entice the palate, while crisp whites offer a refreshing embrace.

As the year draws to a close, the grand finale unfolds—the year-end dance. The night comes alive with the rhythm of music, as residents of Bow Barracks dance the hours away, their spirits soaring until the early hours of the morning. In the heart of Bow Barracks, amidst the resplendent festivities, a tranquil oasis emerges, offering an escape from the whirlwind of the outside world. It is a place where serenity intertwines with frolics, where the mad rush of life finds solace in the embrace of tradition and celebration. Here, amid the gentle glow of lights and the harmonies of timeless melodies, the true essence of Indian Christmas thrives—a haven of peace and joy. Be sure to mark this place on your map.

REFERENCES: