The Evolution of Caravanserais and Dhabas: A Journey Through Tradition and Taste

BY VAIBHAVI DANWAR

To various people, the term Dhaba is synonymous with different things. To some, it’s a dhaba by the side of endless highways where one can get a fill for hunger. To others, it’s a haven to indulge in buttery parathas, creamy dal makhani, and India’s favorite paneer butter masala, simply for the pleasure of taste. The word Dhaba is said to have been derived from Dabba, a tiffin box, a popular term used in North India. Every Indian’s favorite food memories go back to the old days while driving on a road trip. On a chilly winter afternoon on the barren highway to Haryana, was warmed by a humble yet unforgettable meal at a small Murthal dhaba. The spread consisted of a hot plate of dal makhani cooked to creamy goodness and crumbly, flaky parathas slathered with liberal white butter. The food with fresh onions, hot green chilies, and a long glass of rich, creamy lassi comfort food at its best, leaving an indelible mark.

A Tale of Tiffins and Traditions

Down the ages, the Persian world, including Mughal India, has offered tired travelers roadside halts in the form of caravanserais. The word serai, Turkish and Mongol in origin, initially meant a shed or a shelter. Strategically placed along major trade routes, these caravanserais were vital centers for trade, communication, and cultural exchange. Travellers, traders, and armies took refuge in these waystations on long trips, so they were essential to the movement of goods, ideas, and individuals. [Swargajyoti Gohain, 2021]

Just like the historic caravanserais, India’s contemporary dhabas follow in the footsteps of providing comfort and nourishment to traveling people. But the real star that makes these highway eateries so memorable is the food. Some are famous for their masala chai, a true Indian tea made with fresh milk, sugar, and fragrant spices such as cinnamon and ginger. Dhabas offer both vegetarian and non-vegetarian tastes with a range of rich, decadent dishes. For vegetarians, chana bhatura is a filling breakfast option, and for others, there are wholesome meals of tadka dal laced with ghee, crispy tandoori rotis, and delicious paneer preparations throughout the day. At the same time, non-vegetarians take a culinary trip along the highways in search of the most tender kebabs and the best roasted tandoori chicken, the unchallenged symbol of Punjabi cooking. Certain dhabas, by their skill in blending flavors, have taken modest origins to spectacular success stories.

Highway dhabas, with their twinkling lights, vibrant decor, and eye-catching advertisements, pop colors, offer a warm, homely, and relaxed ambience. Beyond the taste and quality of the food, this inviting atmosphere is a key factor that draws in highway travelers. Many young women in their early 20s, often embarking on all girls’ road trips to Himachal Pradesh, find dhabas to be a comfortable space where they can unwind, put up their feet, and enjoy their time without worrying about social etiquette or judgment. Unlike formal restaurants, which require a degree of decorum, dhabas provide a casual, home-like setting where travelers can relish food that evokes a sense of comfort and familiarity. As domestic tourism in India continues to grow, these dhabas also play a crucial role in supporting travelers by offering not just food but also essential facilities such as clean washrooms and hygienic dining spaces.

The new stops now consist of comfortable lodging, secure parking, and good dining, providing motorists with a safe and pleasant experience. Consequently, what started out as humble eating places has developed into a full fledged business, combining heritage with contemporary convenience while preserving the essence of community and hospitality.

The authenticity dhaba bring to middle class
Dhabas in the 1990s were rustic highway stops with charpoy benches, open kitchens, and wood-fired cooking, offering hot meals to truckers and travelers. Today, although traditional dhabas still survive, they have modernized with family oriented areas, cashless payments, and city friendliness. Still, dhabas continue to be beloved for their soul food and vintage appeal. The rapidly emerging dhabas along highways and bypasses differ significantly in appearance and character from traditional roadside eateries. While many of these establishments began as modest shacks or small roadside joints, years of success boosted by increased traffic on better roads have allowed them to evolve into modern, upscale versions of their former selves. For example hotel highway king which started as serving mostly truck drivers expanded and upgraded in big commercial dhaba cum restaurant.

Dhabas are no longer exclusive to highways; they have smoothly blended into urban spheres too. Globalization in millennial India has diminished the distinction between the formal and informal sectors, bringing them more in sync than ever. [Mike Davis 2005] believes that slums inhabited by numerous workers in the informal sector have become an integral part of global urban growth. Likewise, dhabas have spread through cityscapes, given their ability to conform to the changing requirements of urban residents. A good example is the legendary Moolchand Paratha in Delhi, which has evolved beyond a mere food stop, it is a nostalgic haven and a rite of passage for Lady Shri Ram College students, providing them with a taste of comfort with budget friendly and familiarity amidst their hectic academic lives.

Drawing from the nature of nostalgia, which drags people from their ritualistic commercial life to submerge in traditional experiences, these dhabas primarily serve a middle-class clientele. Roadways cater to disparate classes in greatly differing manners. For the burgeoning middle class, they represent improved mobility and ease, generating thrill at roadways’ expansion. But for the less fortunate, highways tend to usher in upheaval more than progress disrupting families, uprooting livelihoods, destroying rural markets, and imposing increased social and geographical mobility constraints rather than relaxing them.

The popularity of dhabas is reflected in travel guides and TV shows like Highway on My Plate on NDTV, where hosts Rocky Singh and Mayur Sharma spotlight iconic highway eateries, as asserted by [Swargajyoti Gohain, 2021]. With the growth of road networks throughout the nation, more individuals are experiencing greater mobility and looking for new places to rest and relax. This has resulted in the development of contemporary highway dhabas. These dhabas are now trendy among the middle-class, who are not only demarcated by their earnings but also by their desire to rise up in social class. Unlike the erstwhile salaried middle class, this emerging consumer group focuses immensely on economic buying power and lifestyle decisions. They wish to increase their cultural capital in the form of articulate English speech, professional degrees from unaccredited institutions, and the procurement of status-symbol goods. Noticing this change, dhaba owners more and more customize their restaurants to appeal to these moneyed patrons, mixing rural authenticity with contemporary comforts to satisfy their changing appetites.

While dhabas are a part of India’s culinary and social fabric, they also have severe social issues. Some have unofficially become prostitution centers, with HIV/AIDS spread being a consequence, while regulation is made impossible by their fast growth. Child labor is another serious issue, with many poor rural children working in dhabas rather than attending school. This holds back their progress and disqualifies attempts towards a more educated India. Governments have brought in tougher laws and enforcement, but there is still a problem in dealing with these ingrained issues.

What makes dhabas truly special in India’s culinary heritage, offering soulful, home-style meals infused with authentic spices. Their charm lies in simple charpoy seating, earthy ambiance, and the comforting aroma of slow cooked delicacies. Over time, these humble eateries have become beloved destinations where people from all walks of life gather to savor rich, flavorful dishes. Beyond food, dhabas symbolize communal dining, tradition, and nostalgia, preserving age old recipes despite modernization. They remain an enduring fusion of history, culture, and gastronomy, making them an irreplaceable part of India’s vibrant food landscape.

References
[Davis, M, 2006] The Prevalence of Slums, in the book Planet of Slums, London: Verso, pp: 20-50

[Gohain, S, 2021] Dhabas, highways and exclusion, in the book Highways and Hierarchies: Ethnographies of Mobility from the Himalaya to the Indian Ocean, edited by Luke Heslop and Galen Murton, pp: 97-123

[Prashar, A, 2014] Dhaba A Case Study India Food, on scribd

[Sunder, K, 2021] The truckers’ food that became an indian culinary style, on Whetstone Magazine