By Variyata Vyas
The Nizams of Hyderabad, who ruled from 1724 to 1948, were the monarchs of the Asaf Jahi dynasty, a powerful lineage that rose to prominence during the decline of the Mughal Empire. The Qutb Shahi dynasty ruled over the region of Telangana and parts of present-day Maharashtra and Karnataka before the Nizams came into power. In 1687, the Mughal Empire captured Golconda, bringing the reign of the Qutb Shahi to an end (Indira & Saritha, 2024). In 1714, Mir Qamar-ud-din Khan, later known as Nizam-ul-Mulk Asaf Jah I, was appointed as the Mughal Viceroy of the Deccan by Emperor Farrukhsiyar (Syed, 2023). The title “Nizam” eventually evolved into a hereditary designation, symbolizing independent rule in Hyderabad. In 1724, Nizam-ul-Mulk Asaf Jah I broke away from Mughal authority and founded the Asaf Jahi dynasty. The dynasty traces its roots to Samarkand in present-day Uzbekistan and had gained prominence through military and administrative service under Emperor Aurangzeb (Syed, 2023). After their independence, the Nizams focused on stabilizing and developing Hyderabad. Early efforts included defensive constructions such as city walls to protect against Maratha incursions. Notable architectural developments like the Malkajgiri Baradari and Chowmahalla Palace were undertaken during this period (Indira & Saritha, 2024).
The Subsidiary Alliance of 1798 marked a turning point in the Nizams’ political structure, as Sikander Jah, the third Nizam, became the first Indian ruler to ally with the British. This led to increased European influence on the architecture and administration of the state. Despite the growing British presence, the Nizams retained internal sovereignty and made substantial contributions to the region’s modernization through investments in education, healthcare, infrastructure, and culture, notably founding Osmania University and Hyderabad State Railways (Syed, 2023). The Asaf Jahi lineage continued through seven Nizams, ending with Mir Osman Ali Khan (Asaf Jah VII), who was the last reigning monarch. In 1948, Hyderabad was integrated into the Indian Union, bringing an end to the monarchy and formally concluding the Asaf Jahi rule (Indira & Saritha, 2024; Syed, 2023).
This paper explores the majestic palaces of the Asaf Jahi dynasty in Hyderabad, focusing on their architecture and conservation efforts. It examines both the royal past and current conditions of iconic structures such as Falaknuma Palace, Chowmahalla, and Purani Haveli, alongside the conservation efforts undertaken to preserve them. At the same time, it examines the challenges faced by palaces like Mahbub Mahal and King Kothi, which continue to suffer from neglect and deterioration. Through this exploration, the paper calls for the urgent need for sustained preservation initiatives to safeguard the palatial heritage of Hyderabad.
The Nizams established their palatial complexes, beginning with the Chowmahalla Palace, located southwest of the Charminar (Indira & Saritha, 2024). The palace was built under the reign of Salabath Jung, the fourth Nizam of Hyderabad, in 1751. Over time, successive Nizams expanded and altered the palace complex, most notably the fifth Nizam, Asaf Jahi II, who reigned from 1762 to 1803. In 1769, he commissioned four key structures: Taniyahat Mahal, Mehtab Mahal, Afzal Mahal, and Aftab Mahal. This quartet of palaces gave the complex its name: Chowmahalla, meaning four palaces. Later, under Asaf Jahi VII (1911–1948), the last Nizam, the palace complex saw the addition of the grand Khilwat Mubarak. Completed in 1916, this structure became the central durbar or ceremonial hall of the Nizams. Though the name Chowmahalla implies four palaces, the complex encompasses several more structures. At its peak, the palace grounds covered 45 acres, although today only 12 acres remain. The site is organized into two main courtyards, with manicured lawns and marble fountains adding to its elegance (Datta, 2024). The northern courtyard leads to Khilwat Mubarak, with a now-unused grand gateway and clock tower standing to its west. South of the durbar hall lies a lawn that opens into the southern courtyard, which is anchored by the Taniyahat Mahal in the north and the Afzal Mahal in the south. Aftab Mahal and Mehtab Mahal are located on the eastern and western ends of this southern section, respectively. Additional buildings, including Roshan Bangla and Bara Imam, are also part of the larger complex. The entire architectural style reflects a fusion of Indo-Saracenic and Neo-Classical influences. The palace, however, remained the private property of the Nizams after Hyderabad’s annexation into the Indian Union in 1948. Later, major restoration efforts of the palace were undertaken by Princess Esra Birgen (Datta, 2024).
Princess Esra Birgen, born in 1936, became part of the Asaf Jah Dynasty of Hyderabad through her marriage to Prince Mukarram Jah. She is known for directing the restoration work on the Chowmahalla and Falaknuma palaces. The Falaknuma Palace was leased to the Taj Group, was turned into a luxury hotel (Ganguly, 2024). On the other hand, after five years of conservation work on the Chowmahalla Palace, it was reopened to the public in 2005 as a museum. In recognition of the restoration efforts, the site received the UNESCO Asia Pacific Merit Award in 2010 (Datta, 2024).
Rethinking The Future (RTF), a global platform dedicated to architecture and design journalism, features the history and transformation of Falaknuma Palace in their article “Timeline of Restoration: Taj Falaknuma, Hyderabad.” According to the article, Falaknuma Palace was commissioned by Sir Nawab Vicar-ul-Umra of the Paigah nobility and completed in 1894 after ten years of construction. The palace was constructed under the supervision of British architect William Mard Marret in a unique scorpion-shaped layout. Over time, ownership passed from Vicar-ul-Umra to the sixth Nizam, Mahboob Ali Pasha, then to the seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan Bahadur, and finally to Prince Mukarram Jah. By the early 1980s, the palace had fallen into disrepair, plagued by financial burdens, legal entanglements, and internal family disputes. Once among India’s most magnificent estates, it stood neglected and closed off. To address the conservation efforts of the palace and deal with its legal and financial challenges, Prince Mukarram sought help from his former wife, Princess Esra Jah. Under her guidance and with the expertise of architects and designers, the palace underwent extensive restoration. Princess Esra personally directed the effort, intent on preserving the cultural heritage of the Nizams.
The Falaknuma Palace is a popular spot for celebrities and other huge events. In 2024, it hosted Mercedes-Benz’s exclusive event. The event highlighted the historical link between the Nizams and luxury cars, making the palace a substantial choice for the display event. This connection is related to the Nizam family’s long association with Mercedes vehicles. A motoring historian and the writer of the book Automobiles of the Nizams, Mohammed Luqman Ali Khan, noted that the Nizam family owned a wide range of Mercedes car models from several decades (Bharadwaj, 2024).
Another notable palace, which is Purani Haveli, now turned museum, has its history detailed on the official website of The Nizam’s Museum. Although not as lavish as Falaknuma Palace or as expansive as Chowmahalla Palace, Purani Haveli was home to several Nizams and holds historical significance. The origins of the palace date back to the Qutb Shahi period, when Mohammad Quli Qutub Shah, the founder of Hyderabad, allocated the site to his prime minister, Mir Momin. In 1777, the second Nizam, Nawab Mir Nizam Ali Khan, acquired the land from Mir Momin’s descendants to construct a residence for his son, Nawab Sikander Jah. In 1803, upon becoming the third Nizam, Sikander Jah moved to the Chowmahalla Palace, and as a result, Purani Haveli remained mostly unoccupied for a period. Although it became significant once more under the rule of the fifth Nizam, Nawab Afzal-ud-Daula. Its use increased further during the rule of the sixth Nizam, Nawab Mir Mahboob Ali Khan, who spent much of his life residing in the palace. Today, Purani Haveli is home to the Nizam’s Museum, also known as the Silver Jubilee Museum, which was established under the wishes of the seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan. The museum displays a collection of gifts and memorabilia, offering a look into the history and legacy of Hyderabad.
However, palaces like King Kothi face significant decay amid Hyderabad’s rapid urban growth. Once magnificent symbols of the Nizam’s royal heritage, these structures now lie neglected, with peeling walls, overgrown gardens, and crumbling facades that contrast sharply with the city’s modernization (Sana, 2024). The palace was acquired by Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last Nizam, when he was just thirteen years old. He resided there until he died in 1967. As reported by the Hyderabad-based newspaper Deccan Chronicle in 2024, the palace is a heritage structure listed by the Hyderabad Metropolitan Development Authority (HMDA), notable for its grand entrance known as the Parda Gate, intricate woodwork, and expansive corridors. The palace is currently divided into three sections: one section has been repurposed as the district hospital, another remains in a state of neglect, and the third has already been demolished. Khan noted that following the death of the last Nizam, the property was transferred to the Nazri Bagh Palace Trust, which failed to maintain the historic site. He cited satellite images from 2019 as evidence of the structure being gradually dismantled from within (Nallella, 2024). In 2022, the Trust sold the palace to a private developer, Neeharika Infra, which had plans to demolish the building. However, Iris Hospitality contested this move, claiming that certain officials from Neeharika Infra had unlawfully sold the property to them. Later, this dispute turned into a civil case in the Telangana High Court. In April 2022, police apprehended a group of intruders at the palace site. More recently, an incident involving a small car crashing into the old police check post near the Parda Gate has raised suspicions among locals, with some alleging it was a deliberate act to resume demolition activities. Khan voiced concern that the destruction of the palace could trigger a broader trend, encouraging other monument trusts to sell and demolish historical landmarks across the city (Nallella, 2024).
Additionally, much like the King Kothi Palace, the Mahbub Mansion, a 19th-century structure commissioned by Mahbub Ali Khan, the sixth Nizam of Hyderabad, is also facing severe historical neglect. The mansion was constructed in a style that combined European and Mughal architectural elements. Its key features included semi-circular arches, detailed woodwork, canopied windows, and an elaborate ceremonial entrance with pediments, crenellated walls, and barbicans (Vellampalli, 2014). A distinctive iron gate, reportedly imported from England and similar to gates found in London and the Hyderabad Secretariat, was also a part of the estate. The mansion served as a seasonal retreat for the Nizam, particularly during horse races, which he observed from a private balcony. To ensure privacy for his wife, Sardar Begum, gold mesh screens were installed, allowing her to view the races without being seen (Vellampalli, 2014).
Much of the structure has deteriorated, walls are crumbling, golden arches are gone, and the interiors are barely recognizable. The premises, now overrun with waste and debris, have seen no consistent maintenance. Prince Mukarram Jah is reported to have withdrawn caretakers from the site due to trustee mismanagement and tax-related complications. According to historian Ghiassudin Akbar, the decline accelerated during the tenure of former Chief Minister Chenna Reddy, when encroachments and a grain market began to take over the area. He also notes that other historic buildings, such as the Basheerbagh and Malwala palaces, met similar fates. Although the Hyderabad Metro Development Authority (HMDA) has identified Mahbub Mansion as a heritage structure and restoration plans have been proposed. But inadequate funding has brought its progress to a standstill. Without timely intervention, the mansion is at serious risk of being lost to time (Vellampalli, 2014).
While a few, such as Chowmahalla and Falaknuma, have been successfully restored through initiatives led by individuals like Princess Esra Birgen, others remain in a state of severe neglect or are threatened by legal battles, administrative apathy, and urban pressure. Despite their heritage status, Mahbub Mansion and King Kothi Palace are falling into ruin, beset by encroachments and mired in legal ownership disputes. As highlighted in the conservation architect, Madhu Vottery’s study, the threats to Hyderabad’s historic architecture are both structural and systemic. Unplanned urban expansion, insensitive reuse, and road-widening projects have often led to the destruction or severe compromise of historic sites. The lack of coordination between agencies such as ASI, HMDA, and municipal departments further undermines conservation efforts. In several cases, even designated heritage buildings have vanished due to inaction or conflicting interests (Vottery, 2011).
Despite this, the city has also witnessed successful instances of adaptive reuse. Structures like Purani Haveli, the British Residency, and Errum Manzil have found new functions, ranging from museums to government offices. These examples demonstrate that with political will, proper funding, and community engagement, heritage buildings can be preserved while serving contemporary needs (Vottery, 2011). Vottery emphasizes the need for stronger legal protections, financial incentives for heritage owners, and greater public awareness through visible signage and heritage walks. She also advocates for the formation of a national-level heritage body to oversee regional conservation and the inclusion of Environmental Impact Assessments for all new urban projects affecting historic precincts.
The restoration and maintenance of historical buildings is essential because they embody a history that must be remembered. These palaces offer a window into the past, revealing stories of royal patronage, craftsmanship, and social life that shaped the city’s identity over centuries. On the other hand, heritage sites like royal palaces serve as educational resources besides textbooks. Through them, individuals gain an understanding of subjects such as architecture, art, politics, and social customs. These sites bring history to life, making learning more immersive and memorable. In addition to their educational value, well-preserved heritage landmarks are important drivers of tourism. Cultural heritage attracts visitors from around the world, contributing significantly to local economies through revenue and job creation. From an aesthetic and artistic perspective, heritage buildings often represent unparalleled achievements in design and craftsmanship. These structures embody the creativity and technical expertise of earlier times, which can serve as an inspiration to architects, artists, and scholars of today and tomorrow. Moreover, rather than demolishing and rebuilding, adapting existing structures for modern use reduces material waste and preserves resources that may no longer be available. Heritage conservation, therefore, supports both cultural and ecological sustainability, making it a responsible and forward-looking practice. Therefore, preservation of heritage must be prioritized through comprehensive policies, sustained financial investment, and collaborative engagement between governmental authorities, conservation experts, and local communities.
References:
Bharadwaj, S. (2024) Merc show at regal Falaknuma palace in Hyderabad rekindles Nizam era auto romance. The Times of India, 21 September. https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/hyderabad/merc-show-at-regal-falaknuma-palace-in-hyderabad-rekindles-nizam-era-autoromance/articleshow/113545935.cms
Datta, R. (2024) Chowmahalla Palace of the Nizams in Hyderabad, a picture of opulence and magnificence. The Telegraph https://www.telegraphindia.com/my-kolkata/places/chowmahalla-palace-of-the-nizams-in-hyderabad-a-picture-of-opulence-and-magnificence/cid/2067848#goog_rewarded
Indira, K. and Saritha, B., 2024. Architectural Variation in Princely Palaces of Telangana Region (19th Cen to 1948). African Journal of Biological Sciences, 6(9), pp.474–482.
Re-thinking The Future, Timeline of restoration: Taj Falaknuma, Hyderabad. https://www.re-thinkingthefuture.com/architectural-styles/a8101-timeline-of-restoration-taj-falaknuma-hyderabad/?
Nallella, P., 2024. King Kothi Palace neglected over legal disputes. Deccan Chronicle. https://www.deccanchronicle.com/nation/king-kothi-palace-neglected-over-legal-disputes-887712
Sana, S. (2024). King Kothi and Erram Manzil: The forgotten Nizam-era palaces of Hyderabad. The South First. https://thesouthfirst.com/telangana/king-kothi-and-erram-manzil-the-forgotten-nizam-era-palaces-of-hyderabad/
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