Kolkata’s hidden cabin culture of food

What causes the Bengali soul to dwell in the shady passages of Kolkata? The alluring aroma and sight of Fish Kabiraji (fresh fish fritters) on a large kadhai stripping off the excess oil draws a bustling crowd to the food Cabin. Once inside, patrons are greeted with a charmingly

 

 

(Courtesy: Ananta Mandal, Monsoon in Kolkata)

 

chaotic atmosphere as the waitstaff nimbly navigates between tightly spaced tables, expertly delivering dishes while under the watchful eye of their manager. Those who know the drill understand to have a fully immersive experience, orders should be placed with loud proclamations. And for those looking to indulge in the culinary adventure, it’s wise to bring some Gelusil (A constant companion for gastric patients) for later.

Kolkata’s iconic Heritage Cabin eateries are shrouded in an aura of secrecy and have served as a hospice for diverse social circles throughout history. These enigmatic restaurants have witnessed clandestine political affairs, an escapade for women seeking anonymity, and romantic rendezvous. Amidst Kolkata’s culinary endeavours, Cabin eateries hold a distinctive place in the city’s culture. Originating in the early 1800s, these modest establishments, known locally as ka-beens, liberated the dining spaces, offering a delicious and inexpensive alternative from the shackles of home-cooked meals for the common folk. The Cabin space can be classified as featuring partitions crafted from plywood, providing patrons with a sense of exclusivity and seclusion. The term “Cabin” derives itself from their unique layout, characterized by wooden cubicles separated by curtains or saloon-style doors. Encompassing a rustic charisma and modest seating arrangements, these restaurants personify the old-world appeal, embodying the Heritage of Kolkata’s past. The infrastructure, reminiscent of previous eras, serves as a testament to their historical significance. In this exploration of Kolkata’s Cabin restaurants, unravelling the stories hidden within the walls and the legacy that they continue to uphold in the city’s vibrant Heritage as we delve into their rich history and cultural impact.

 

 

(Courtesy: Sobhika Vasanthan, People sprawled in the Cabin, thebetterindia.com)

 

During the 1960s, Cabin restaurants in Kolkata revolutionized dating culture by providing secluded dining experiences for couples. Women from conservative families could also enjoy the privacy of dining out. Partitioned tables and drawn curtains offered discreet and intimate dining experiences, making these restaurants a sanctuary for those seeking privacy in public spaces. Cabin restaurants in India, located near educational institutions, played a crucial role in the country’s fight for independence. These establishments became central hubs for student activists to strategize and coordinate their actions against British colonial rule. Not only did they provide a safe haven for notable figures of the freedom movement like Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose, Surya Sen, and Prafulla Chandra Ray, but they also continued to serve as pivotal meeting spots for student activists involved in the Naxalite movement, solidifying their place in Kolkata’s rich historical Heritage.

As liberalization emerged, Cabin restaurants underwent a significant evolution over time. Despite retaining their names and nostalgic feel, many of these establishments have transitioned to open-screen setups due to escalating costs. In light of the challenges posed by extended tea sessions, owners have had to make operational adjustments and menu expansions to remain sustainable. However, despite these challenges, nostalgia and culinary excellence continue to endure, drawing patrons to these iconic venues.

Fern Restaurant, Mitra Café, Anadi Cabin, Favourite Cabin, and Dhiren Cafe have been iconic Cabin restaurants for over a century, offering a unique fusion of Indian and European flavours tailored to local tastes. With their affordable prices and diverse menu offerings, these eateries have satisfied a variety of culinary cravings, from kabiraji cutlets to Mughlai dishes and buttered toast. Their longevity is a testament to their continued relevance and ability to adapt, ensuring that they remain cherished landmarks in Kolkata’s dining scene.

 

 

(Courtesy: Shamik Bag, Privacy in Cabin, Mint)

 

Anadi Cabin

One of the must-try food places in Kolkata is a Cabin called Anadi Cabin, which we assume most people in Kolkata have tried at least once in their lifetime. The Cabin is located in Esplanade, just beside the Esplanade metro station, and is one of the most popular food junctions in the area. This unique Cabin is almost 106 years old and still serves people the same quality of food that it did when it first opened. The place is mostly famous for its Mughlai, which is also the signature item and a must-try when in Kolkata, along with the famous mutton curry.

Anadi Cabin was first established in 1925 and was also known as a place where the famous actor Uttam Kumar often visited for Mughlai and fish fry. The Cabin offers Mughlai paratha at two prices: ₹90 and ₹100. For ₹90, you will get a Mughlai with duck eggs, and for ₹100, you will get a Mughlai with two country chicken eggs. People often try this Mughlai with a mutton curry served here, but it can be a bit heavy. However, every Cabin has its own culture, and Anadi Cabin is famous for serving Mughlai along with mutton curry, so you should definitely give it a go at least once. The taste of the Mughlai paratha has remained the same since the beginning.

If we look into the history of Anadi Cabin, we will find that the Cabin was not named Anadi when it was first established. The Cabin was first established by its first owner, Balaram Jana. Balaram Jana had a child named Anadi Jana, and after the unfortunate death of his son, he named the Cabin in memory of his son – ANADI CABIN.

Along with Mughlai paratha and mutton kosha, you can also enjoy fish fry, chicken, cutlets, and other delicious dishes at Anadi Cabin.

 

 

(Courtesy: Bulbul Rajagopal, The Hindu)

 

MITRA CAFE

Mitra Cafe, located in Kolkata, is a beloved eatery famous for its delectable fries and fish batter fry, known as fish fry. With a century-long reign in the market, it’s a must-visit for anyone seeking an authentic taste of pure bhetki fish. The most indulging is their diamond fish kabiraji for a truly unique experience.

What sets Mitra Cafe apart is its numerous branches scattered throughout Kolkata, each providing a cozy atmosphere that captures the essence of Calcutta. In addition to their signature dish, the fish fry, a variety of other items such as prawn cutlet, mutton kabiraji, and mutton brain chop are also highly recommended.

Surprisingly, Mitra Cafe offers chicken stew for only two rupees. This dish has maintained its high quality and low price over the years, making it a fantastic deal and a must-try for anyone in the area.

 

 

(Courtesy: mitracafe.co.in)

DHIREN CABIN

If you’re looking for an authentic food experience in North Kolkata, don’t miss out on the 90-year-old Dhiren Cabin. Despite modernization, this Heritage restaurant remains a special place due to its rich history. You can still enjoy the privacy of separate Cabins with your friends and family. Dhiren Cabin was established in 1938 by Dhirendranath Dey, and has even served the legendary “Uttam Kumar”. As with many Cabins in the area, fried items are a popular choice here. Their egg devil, mutton breast cutlet, fish cutlet, Mughlai paratha, dahi chicken, mutton curry, chicken stew, sliced bread, and more, are all famous. However, we have noticed that the food is slightly sweeter than expected. If you prefer spicier dishes, this may not be the right place for you. Nevertheless, the quality of the food and the ambience are guaranteed to satisfy. We highly recommend trying the egg devil, mutton breast cutlet, and fish roll, which are all signature dishes of this Cabin. While the egg devil may be sweeter than anticipated, the minced mutton is sure to impress your taste buds.

 

 

(Courtesy: www.getbengal.com)

 

References

Bag, Shamik. “Kolkata Chromosome | Kiss Me in the Cabin | Mint.” Mint, 25 May 2013, www.livemint.com/Leisure/hWXj79qPmqpG9n6KaLBKPK/Kolkata-Chromosome–Kiss-me-in-the-Cabin.html.

Chakrabarty, Sayantani. “Canoodling Over Cutlet: How the Calcutta Cabin Culture Has Evolved.” CNBCTV18, 26 Dec. 2019, www.cnbctv18.com/views/canoodling-over-cutlet-how-the-calcutta-Cabin-culture-has-changed-4946151.htm/amp.

Mitra, Dipawali. “South Kolkata Eatery Walk Stirs up Nostalgia Over ‘Cabin Culture.’” The Times of India, 1 July 2019, timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/Kolkata/south-Kolkata-eatery-walk-stirs-up-nostalgia-over-Cabin-culture/amp_articleshow/70015617.cms.

Rajagopal, Bulbul. A Peek Into the Famed Cabin Restaurants of Kolkata. 16 Aug. 2018, www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/a-delicious-chaos/article24696259.ece/amp.

Ray, Utsa. Culinary Culture in Colonial India. Cambridge UP, 2015, books.google.ie/books?id=fDXJBAAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=The+subculture+of+public+dining+in+the+colonial+Bengal&hl=&cd=1&source=gbs_api.

Sobhika Vasanthan, and Sobhika Vasanthan. “The History and Cultural Legacy of Kolkata’s Iconic Cabin Restaurants.” Homegrown, 13 July 2023, homegrown.co.in/amp/story/homegrown-voices/history/the-history-cultural-legacy-of-Kolkatas-iconic-Cabin-restaurants.

Tales, Kolkata. “Top 10 Old Cabin Restaurants You Must Try in Once – Kolkata Tales – Medium.” Medium, 12 Aug. 2023, Kolkatatales.medium.com/top-10-old-Cabin-restaurants-you-must-try-in-once-3a705741be3a.\